Tuesday, April 12, 2016

Wilsons Promontory Lighthouse.

Wilsons Prom, a huge national park located in the the south of Victoria and the southern most point of mainland Australia was a place I had never visited and never thought of hiking. I do enjoy hiking in more remote places with less people and not as touristy, and the Prom is a very popular tourist spot.
Kev had floated the idea of a Prom hike a while back so it was time to give it a crack, and I went in with little expectation, oh boy, was I wrong, WOW, what a place.
After leaving Bacchas Marsh at 7am on a nice Autumn Saturday morning the usual suspect, Brent, Kev and me took to the road for the 4 hour drive to Tidal River where we were to start.
Kev pouring his port into plastic bottles.

Our plan was to start the 3 day trek from from the Telegraph Saddle (Mt Oberon) car park, head east to Refuge Cove, then south to the lighthouse and Roaring Meg, then back to the Telegraph Saddle. We arrived a little after 11am to find the car park full and the road to the saddle closed so after we checked in at the visitors center at Tidal River we were guided to the bus stop that would take us to the car park.
Brent and Kev eyeing off the other hikers about to board the bus.

A short bus ride and a quick chat with a few of the fellow hikers we had arrived at our start point. We geared up and were on our way by 12.15pm, blue sky's, 15 degrees, perfect. 
 

The track was well marked and very defined, no chance of being disorientated in the Prom. The terrain was rocky and the burnt trees reminded me of the snow gums in the high country, was really nice. 
We were hiking at a steady pace, over 4km/hr, good considering the packs on our back and it only took 45 minutes to reach Windy Saddle where we depacked for a quick bush bathroom stop. 

It wasn't long before the burnt landscape turned into a beautiful lush green forest with huge towering tree ferns and moss covered boulders. It was at this point that I started to think that we were in for one hell of a hike as the terrain had already changes a multitude of times and there was always something new to look at. We were in our element. 

By 2.15 we had hit the boardwalk that snakes its way over the 1.5 kilometers of swamp land before crossing a large foot bridge and hitting the north beach of Sealers Cove.

From a lush almost tropical rain forest the track opened out to reveal probably one of the most beautiful beaches I had seen. The white sand and flat blue water surrounded by mountainous forest made for an amazing location and we could have easily stayed here for the rest of the day and set camp. 

We had to continue as Refuge cove was our destination today. We walked the 500mt along the beach, there were other hikers around and a few tents set overlooking the horizon. 
By 3pm we had made it along the beach and come to the river crossing that had to be taken in order to continue. 

We were unsure of the depth and so were a few other groups of hikers contemplating the best place to cross the river. We had heard that at high tide the water level can be well over your waist. High tide was a few hours ago so in I went. 
Boots off and dangling around my neck, shorts rolled up as high as my thighs would let them and trusty walking stick made for an event-less crossing and I then sat and watched everyone else give it a crack. 
Brent is used to the cold being from Ballarat. 

We geared up again and after a chat and a laugh with a few of the other hikers that made the crossing we were on our way, passing through the main Sealers Cove camp ground that seemed to be quite busy. 
It was near on 3.30 and we still had over 6km to hike for the day. We were once again trekking through thick lush forest but there was a noticeable difference, it was getting hilly and with tired legs, tough, but great. 

By 4:15 we had arrived at a rocky section of the track that looked out over Sealers Cove, we were at Horn Pt and had to stop and take in the amazing views. 

Its views like this that makes it all worth while. 

It was inland from here as the tranquil sight of the extremely calm and majestic ocean had gone for the time being. 
As always Kev was stopping to take a picture of anything that moved or looked obscure, this was great as it gave us time to rest and catch a breath.
Kev trying to capture a pic of a spotted skink. 

A little further to go now and it wasn't long long before we had hit the beach of Refuge Cove. A lot smaller than Sealers Cove but a lot more secluded and absolutely beautiful. 
Arriving at Refuge Cove.

We were instantly overwhelmed by our location and were thrilled that we were spending the night here. A few boats had dropped anchor for the night and we could also see a couple of tents set up in the shrubs. 
We dropped our packs and had a little look around trying to scout the best location to set camp. The main camp area was inland a little with no views of the ocean and already had a number of tents pitches so we decided to pull up stumps in whats know as the boat camping area, right on the beach.  


As the sun set and the port started to flow the discussion turned to our favorite camp spots. Up there on the top of all our lists is Dibbons Hut in the Mt Hotham high country. (Featured in my first Mt Feathertop blog in 2010). 
But tonight Dibbons had been dethroned, and it wasn't the port talking, Refuge Cove for many reasons was now sitting atop of our list and deservedly so. The sense of isolation within absolutely amazing surroundings is what we urn for, this place was like no other.
Kev didn't want to leave. 

As the sun rose on day 2 the water was inviting to sooth some sore muscles from our 18km walk on day one. Kev as always cooked up a storm, eggs and bacon while Brent and I settled for some porridge. 
We had a big day ahead, the aim was to walk south to the light house then camp at Roaring Meg. We could have stayed here all day but it was time to leave and by 8.15 we were on our way. 

Walking out of Refuge was quite tiring as it was a steady climb and the toughest part of the hike so far. We were rewarded for our efforts soon after with a cool view looking down on the hidden cove we had just camped at. 

Brent taking in the view of Refuge Cove. 

By 9am we were taking of our packs for the short 5 minute walk to Kersop Peak. There were a few hikers around at this stage, all making their way to where we had come from. The walk to the summit of Kersop is worth while as there are some great views and the first sighting of the lighthouse.
Waz atop Kersop Peak. 

Returning to our packs we were puzzled to find Brent and Kevs bags had been open and some gear spread over the ground. Nothing was taken and the disappointment set in thinking that someone had riffled through our bags. 
On our return home I posted my disappointment on a hiking forum and was shot down instantly by many posts ensuring me that this was done by ravens and that is is common in the area. Some pics and videos posted proved this theory, I was relieved. 

Big kids climbing rocks. 

Continuing on and by 9.45 we had traveled 5km and had hit our first beach for the day. We were in North Waterloo Bay on a small remote beach and took the opportunity to have a little look around, was a nice spot. 
Walking back in the trees and away from the coast line it look about an hour before we had hit the Little Waterloo Bay camp ground. Like all the areas in this area it was a great spot and there was room for plenty of hikers. 

Before hitting the long km beach walk we crossed the ford with ease as the tide was out and were once again greeted by a pristine secluded beach that would look good an any post card.   

                                      

We had also come to the junction and track that most people use to return to Tidal River. It was 11am and the Waterloo Bay track vanished into the shrub as we walked past it and began our 1km walk along the beach.

The boys battling the wind along Waterloo Bay.  

The beach was quite open and subject to heavy winds, and for the first time on the hike it was a little unpleasant, the strong cross winds and light intermittent rain meant that we were glad to see the end of the sand and the return of the forest. 
Brent topping up his water bottle. 

Much like day one, the forest was wet and lush, even after an extremely dry summer. There was water available from a number of small streams trickling from between the huge moss covered boulders. 


As we continued on we were keen for lunch but not that keen on stopping without a few to look over, so we continued on in hope for some views. At 12.30 we were rewarded after a hard slog up into the thick forest we came across an opening that looked out over the lighthouse, perfect. 
Lunch spot, lighthouse in background. 

We chose to make our lunch break short but sweet as the wind was freezing on our sweat soaked clothing. By 12.50 we were back on track, our blood started to flow and we were soon warm again. 
By 2pm we had reached the turn off to the light house. We were starting to feel tired and I would have been easy to continue to Roaring Meg, but the light house looked too cool to walk by. 
The steep walk up to the lighthouse. 

The walk up to the lighthouse was steep but made a lot easier without our packs. As we got higher the wind picked up but weren't a bother as the views were amazing.
Built in 1859. 

It was a pretty cool spot, the lighthouse was great and we had a good time looking around the out buildings and scenery.
Many hikers walk in and stay at the lighthouse for a night or two as there is accommodation and the comfort of a bed. 
By 2.45 it was time to make our way to Roaring Meg, or destination for the day. The views leaving the lighthouse were great and we took the opportunity to take them in.
The view from the lighthouse looking back. 

It took us about an hour to reach the Telegraph 4WD track. The walking is getting tough as the day has been long and we are starting to travel inland, but the last views of the coast were great.
Looking back on the lighthouse. 

We chose to take the walking track rather than continue on the 4wd track, were were told the walking track is shorter in distance but takes more time as it wasn't flat, but well worth it and lot nicer than the 4wd track.

By 4.30 we had made it, a huge day of hiking, well over 20km, we had reached Roaring Meg camp, a very green and secluded spot right on the nicely running stream, a great spot to set camp and relax for the night.   

Roaring Meg. 

We were pretty knackered and grateful of the stream that we could soak our feet in and enjoy a nice warm coffee. The boys were struggling with some major sore muscles so the icy water had a soothing effect and would give us a good start for the morning. 
Bruised and battered. 

We all had a little port left and that on top of some light rain saw us all hit our tents about 8.30 for what was a wet windy night, but I did sleep well. 
Day 3, chilly and a little overcast but the rain had stopped and the wind had eased. We were awake before 7 and after our coffee and porridge we were on our way by 8am.  


We followed the old telegraph line, it was really cool and almost reminded me of some of the high country as the shrubs were low and the mountains in the distance were shrouded in clouds.

By 8.40 we had once again hit the 4wd track. It was ok as we were high up and looking across the landscape with mountains in the background. Was easy walking from here as there wasn't any hills to climb and our packs were much lighter than when we had started, 
Before 9.30 were had reached the Half Way Hut and camping area and had a break.  

Half Way Hut

This was a cool little spot. Not really sure what the hut was about and when it was built but a good place to camp if you wanted, right next to the 4wd track though. 
By 9.45 we had hit the junction and the turn off to Oberon Bay. We chose to return via the bay as our car was at Tidal River and it looked a lot more scenic. 
The section from the junction to Oberon Bay was probably the most uninspiring of the whole trip as it was on a sandy 4wd track and not a lot to look at. 
Oberon Bay. 

By 10.30 we were on the beach and once again were amazed with our surroundings. The west coast of the Prom is so different to the east coast, windy and choppy water, reminds me a little of the surf coast of Victoria. 
By now we were feeling it, muscles getting sore and looking for the end even though were still being blown away with the environment we were in. 
We were off the beach by 11am and on the home stretch. 

Closing in on Tidal River. 

The last section was slower than our normal pace, tired aching muscles and huge bulging blisters made for a slow shuffle but we had heaps of time so no rush. 
This section of the walk was also the busiest, a lot of day walkers hiking to Oberon and back from Tidal River, and they all wanted to stop and chat to us about where we had been. my hiking stick was also very popular and everyone wanted to know about the notches I carve in it. 


By 12.30 we were back at Tidal River and made out way slowly to Brents car where a warm Pepsi Max went down a treat. 
I hope this blog reflects what I thought of Wilsons Prom, I was floored. I would say the best hike I have done. It had everything from beautiful remote beaches to lush green forests that were surrounded by tall mountains. Plenty of water and even though there were other hikers around, I did fell the remoteness I thrive for on a hike. 
As always Brent and Kev are great blokes and ripper hiking companions, we have a good laugh and a awesome time.